Esxence Milan is an event that brings together industry professionals: distributors, store owners, bloggers, perfume journalists and lovers of beauty. The first three days are reserved for the work of professionals, and since this year the entrance to this time has become paid, but on the fourth day the doors of the exhibition are open to all comers.

However, whatever category of Esxence guests you belong to, it is a big mistake to go here without preparation. There are hundreds of stands, and although it is possible to physically walk around the entire exhibition, stopping at each one is a sure way to sensory overload: neither your nose nor your brain will be able to stand it. It is better to make a route in advance, choosing the key brands and novelties you want to listen to.
But the main question that concerns all those who are professionally interested in perfumery: what trends now occupy the top positions? What chords can become new favorites, what inspires creative directors? And what do they think the customer wants or will soon want? Of course, there are also brands that remain true to their pure artistic vision, not looking back at trends. Such examples of bright individuality attract special attention.

Perhaps the main surprise of this year is the persistence of the trend for gourmet compositions. It would seem that it is time to give way to new trends, but no: fragrances with notes of baked goods, caramel, exotic fruits are still in the spotlight. Moreover, even those brands that used to stay away from this theme are now turning to it.

Even such an independent brand as Parfums Dusita, known for its independence, presented the new Tonka Latte - not yet available on sale, but already causing a stir. Its lactone, caramel-almond composition sounds so delicate and cozy that it brings back memories from the distant childhood.

At the same time Francesca dell'Oro added two fragrances to her &ldquo;vanilla&rdquo; collection, which, according to the creator's idea, should be worn in the afternoon. Now there are four fragrances in the line - a kind of schedule for fans of vanilla. This ingredient has long gone beyond an &ldquo;auxiliary&rdquo; note and is increasingly becoming the protagonist of compositions, but such an impressive favoritism, which is given to vanilla today, the perfume market, perhaps, has not yet seen.

But Lengling, one of the most distinctive brands on the market, surprised by releasing a pistachio fragrance back in 2015. And this was long before pistachios became one of the key trends in perfumery, adorning both floral and gourmand compositions. Ursula and Christopher Langling, whose artistic direction makes the brand so unique, were once again one step ahead of the competition.

PEACHES, MILKSHAKES AND... PSYCHEDELICS

Peach's Revenge fragrance by Sarah Baker Perfumes was a real hit at last year's exhibition. This year the brand has unfolded a whole &ldquo;peach saga&rdquo;, presenting two new fragrances: Pastel Rumours and Rococo Pie.&nbsp;And if Rococo Pie is a story of forbidden passion, with musky white sheets, reflections of the sun in painted ceilings and a rich accord of walnuts and peaches, then Pastel Rumours sounds like a sweet final chord - loud, creamy, causing irrepressible appetite.

But the most unexpected release from Sarah Baker is Prism Head, created in duo with Miguel Matos. Clearly inspired by consciousness-expanding experiences, this fragrance is built on notes of earth, mushrooms and cannabis. It breaks sharply out of the brand's usual lineup and comes across as a very frank challenge to expectations.

RETRO FUTURISM AND THE NEON GLITTER OF THE PAST

Contrary to stereotypes, not all brands strive to release new products every year - many prefer to work &ldquo;in depth&rdquo;, developing existing lines. Majda Bekkali, for example, whose collection consists of only fourteen fragrances, but each of them definitely deserves attention. Tulaytulah, with its almond accord, foreshadowed the current fashion for this note back in 2015. This year, the brand introduced Tulaytulah Obscur, where almond boldly goes already into gourmand-leather territory.

Astrophil &amp; Stella, known for its subtle work with themes and concepts, turned to the aesthetics of retro-futurism of the 1960s. The new Chromodoro fragrance is inspired by the era of space exploration and fantasies of the future. The main note is tomato haulm, which unexpectedly combines with a warm, transparent base, creating tension and intrigue.

Another novelty that was eagerly awaited at the exhibition was Neon Lights by Milano Fragranze. This fragrance takes us to the atmosphere of Parisian clubs of the 1930s: tuberose, strawberry, champagne. Festive, glamorous and infectious as hell.

Esxence is a massive event, certainly growing the business and pointing out fresh trends. But it is also a chance to meet face-to-face with key industry players. For example, this time you could personally talk to Dominique Ropion, who presented his new brand Aphorismes. And the legendary perfume critic Luca Turin could be met at the Parfum d'Empire stand - he still admires Marc-Antoine Cortecchiato's work.

But perhaps the most unexpected debutant of the exhibition was MDCI Parfums. This brand, founded by Claude Marchal, has always been a bit away from the mass niche trends. Its collection includes fragrances created by the best perfumers of the world, from Pierre Bourdon to Cecile Zarokian.&nbsp;

This time the brand presented not only perfume compositions, but also its first line of MDCI Beaut&eacute; facial care products. Of course, everything is designed with the same attention to aesthetics: creams and serums are packed in porcelain cases from the Royal Limoges manufactory, decorated in the style of French art of the XVIII century.

Esxence gives an opportunity not only to test new products, but also to touch the very essence of the art of fragrance. To find out what is behind each bottle, to see the real people behind the legendary names. And it is for this reason that you should come to Milan once a year at the end of February.

Tamara Gezerdava is a perfume critic, blogger and lecturer.
@<a href="https://www.instagram.com/toma.aroma/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">toma.aroma/Instagram</a>
@<a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCdWWJ7j0qgY_j5H8qzVZ-TA" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Toma Aroma/YouTube</a>

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