Jewelery & Watches

A Return to the Roots: Two Roger Dubuis Timepieces That Look Ahead

In celebration of the Maison’s 30th anniversary, two new timepieces have been unveiled that bring together heritage, technical mastery, and a modern take on haute horlogerie. The Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar and Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon embody everything Roger Dubuis stands for: precision, boldness, and attention to detail. Let’s take a closer look at what makes them special.

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Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar: Revisiting the Spirit of 1996

Back in 1996, Roger Dubuis introduced its first timepiece with a bi-retrograde display—a bold concept that quickly became a signature. In 2025, the mechanism returns in a refined new form, stronger and more balanced than ever.

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The 40 mm case size echoes the classic proportions of the early models. Materials such as 18k pink gold and white mother-of-pearl, widely used by the Maison in the early 2000s, bridge past and present. The dial layout is symmetrical, with curved retrograde indicators and a small seconds subdial at six o’clock. Every element is built like architecture—precise and intentional.

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At the heart of the watch is the RD840 calibre, offering 60 hours of power reserve and finished entirely by hand. The Poinçon de Genève seal confirms its craftsmanship. A closer look through the sapphire caseback reveals a rotor engraved with a phrase pulled from the Roger Dubuis archives: “These are the watches of today—driven by the past, yet not bound by it.”

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Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon: Strength Encased in a Tourbillon

The second model, the Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon, takes a different approach. It’s not about nostalgia—it’s about raw power and bold expression. The Chinese dragon theme is executed with structural precision: 27 hand-assembled pieces mounted above the skeletonized RD512SQ calibre.

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No printing, no paint—just pure form and metallic tension. It’s a feat of micro-engineering and meticulous craftsmanship. The dragon coils around the tourbillon, guarding the beating heart of the movement.

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That tourbillon boasts a 72-hour power reserve and a silicon escapement built to withstand modern performance demands. Certified with the Poinçon de Genève and developed entirely in-house, it’s every bit as serious as it looks.

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The case is made of DLC-coated titanium. The strap features a quick-release system. Only 28 pieces will be made. Inspired by the Chinese calendar, the watch speaks a universal language of precision and power.

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The Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar is for those who appreciate mechanical clarity and elegance. The Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon is for those drawn to symbols, strength, and challenge.

Credits: ROGER DUBUIS | Photos courtesy of Gooseberry Communication

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