Fashion

Milan Fashion Week Spring Summer 2024: Between Hot Debuts & Simplicity

Excellent debuts, starting with De Sarno in Gucci. And then many collections that aim at wearability and saleability, rather than to amaze.

Prada the spring summer 2024 show at Milan Fashion Week
Prada the spring summer 2024 show at Milan Fashion Week

If we talk about trends in the strict sense, nothing that was seen on the catwalk had a disruptive effect. There are those who have pulled straight on their way of simplifications broken down and recomposed to Matthieu Blazy by Bottega Veneta; experimental rigor like Jil Sander or Ferragamo, or, on the contrary, prints in full color and sexyness by Fausto Puglisi chez Roberto Cavalli; of avant-garde irony of Sunnei (what a fun moment-palette raised in Dancing with the Stars style); of techno-grit in pure Ferrari style; of ladylike femininity by Alberta Ferretti or Ermanno Scervino.

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BOTTEGA VENETA
JIL SANDER
SUNNEI
FERRARI
ALBERTA FERRETTI
FERRARI

This was the first season of De Sarno at Gucci, a debut tormented by the whims of the time - goodbye fashion show in via Brera, we found ourselves in the hub of via Mecenate. And from undeserved criticism, first of all because a beginning is by definition something that begins to take shape that is not yet completely completed, just like the word chosen by the brand for communication and pre-show activations. Then because it is clear that the designer has been called by the brand to interpret a request that starts from the market and not from the fashion people in continuous search for the wow effect. For those who have not noticed, LVMH is pumping Loro Piana, a brand devoted to absolute excellence of materials, finishes and details, whose presentation for spring summer 2024 has made a quantum leap in all senses, - from the setting, to the breadth of the proposals, wearable in everyday life.

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Gucci SS2024
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GUCCI & LORO PIANA

De Sarno was not the only one who probably spent nights in white at Blanco, co-creator of Blanco Dolce & Gabbana Special Collection, presented by the artist with a mini-concert. Peter Hawkings, after more than twenty years alongside Tom Ford has taken the creative reins of the brand in the name of continuity. Simone Bellotti, Bally's new creative director, had the task of lowering the decidedly more mischievous tones of his predecessor, Rhuigi Villaseñor, who remained in office for less than a year, and he did so successfully. When at The Attico, the novelty was not the changing of the guard, but the first ever fashion show, an experiment perhaps not entirely successful by the founders Gilda Ambrosio and Giorgia Tordini.

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TOM FORD
BALLY
PRADA

There have also been two farewells, that of Walter Chiapponi, who greeted Tod's with an impeccable fashion show, and that of Fabio Zambernardi at Prada, after 40 years alongside Mrs. Miuccia. It was she who wanted him with her and Raf Simons for the final applause. A moment that the host of young international influencers may have struggled to understand. But for the insiders who over the years have admired his talent always behind the scenes, it was a dip in the heart.

For a long time we have not seen in Milan so many international superstars from Scarlett Johansson, Rosalìa, Benedict Cumberbatch at Prada, to Demi Moore and Naomi Watts at Fendi, Cate Blanchett at Giorgio Armani, Ryan Gosling and Julia Roberts at Gucci, Sharon Stone at Tod's (and the list could go on), not to mention Marisa Berenson protagonist of Antonio Marras' show of the former super models, Linda Evangelista, Kate Moss and Claudia Schiffer on the catwalk for Versace, while Naomi Campbell snatched warm applause at Dolce & Gabbana.

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Rosalía and Scarlett Johansson from PRADA, Naomi Campbell from DOLCE & GABBANA.

The most sincere emotion, however, was aroused by Donatella Versace on the stage of La Scala, in receiving from the hands of Marco Mengoni the Humanitarian Award For Equity and Inclusivity, as part of the CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards 2023, organized by the National Chamber of Italian Fashion, in collaboration with the Ethical Fashion Initiative of the United Nations Agency ITC and the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, with the support of the Municipality of Milan.

Donatella, who has lived, suffered, loved and struggled so much, remains authentic in her being larger than life. "Here in Italy, it has never been more important for us to support minority voices," she explained. "Our government is trying to take away people's rights to live as they wish, they are restricting our freedoms. The freedom to walk down the street with your head held high and without fear, regardless of identity. The freedom to build a family and live as you wish. The freedom to love whoever you want. We must all fight for freedom." Words that in the mouth of others would be rhetorical, with her become true.

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Sabrina Impacciatore, Marco Mengoni and Donatella Versace with her speech at the Teatro alla Scala for the CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards 2023

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