Glenn Martens stepped into the hallowed halls of Maison Margiela with a profound understanding that he was inheriting both a fashion house, and a philosophy. Following John Galliano's dramatic return to haute couture last year with a Spring/Summer 2024 collection that redefined the maison's trajectory, Martens now carries the torch, presenting his debut Fall 2025 Haute Couture collection that honors both Martin Margiela's revolutionary legacy and his own creative vision.

The 42-year-old designer arrives at this pivotal moment with impressive credentials. After seven transformative years at Y/Project, Martens revitalized Diesel in 2020, attracting a devoted Gen Z following and driving remarkable 45% growth for the established brand. His appointment as Creative Director of Maison Margiela in January marked the beginning of what promises to be a fascinating new chapter for the house.

A Medieval Reverie in Modern Couture

For his debut, Martens drew inspiration from the gothic grandeur of Belgian medieval architecture, creating an immersive experience that transported guests back to 2008&mdash;the year Martin Margiela bid farewell to fashion at Le Centquatre, the 104 art center in Paris. The venue itself became part of the narrative, with walls and floors transformed into a collaged European court fantasy featuring mottled frescoes, peeling tiles, and faded wallpaper. As the deconstructed melodies of Smashing Pumpkins filled the space, an eerie yet captivating atmosphere emerged, setting the stage for a collection steeped in beautiful destruction.
The artisanal pieces revealed Martens' deep appreciation for his Belgian heritage while remaining true to Margiela's iconoclastic spirit. Flemish medieval architecture found expression through rich fabric layers, with giant corrugated robes crafted from molten metal organza that seemed to echo the soaring lines of Gothic cathedrals. Exaggerated waists and faux lacquer finishes recreated the sculptural quality of church statuary, while 17th-century Dutch opulence manifested through intricate jacquard, Renaissance prints, and embossed leather.

The Enduring Power of Concealment

Perhaps no element is more synonymous with Margiela than the mask&mdash;a motif that first appeared in Martin Margiela's Spring/Summer 1989 debut and continued throughout his tenure. Martens understood the significance of this recurring theme, making it central to his inaugural collection while adding his own contemporary interpretation. Some masks emerged from weathered metal boxes adorned with crushed crystals, while others were crafted from feather-light sheer organza or delicate appliqu&eacute; lace. Each piece spoke to the house's ongoing exploration of identity, anonymity, and the relationship between concealment and revelation.

Deconstruction as Renaissance

True to Margiela's founding principles, Martens embraced the art of deconstruction and regeneration. Discarded metal boxes were transformed into sculptural masks, while gowns appeared wrinkled like wet seaweed&mdash;a technique that echoed his acclaimed 2022 couture work for Jean Paul Gaultier. Transparent plastic took on sculptural qualities, proving that beauty could emerge from the most unexpected materials awaiting reinvention. Through this approach, Martens demonstrated that haute couture could be reborn through a lens of intentional imperfection and found beauty.

Bridging Past and Present

The collection also paid thoughtful tribute to John Galliano's dramatic tenure at the house. Medieval-inspired corsets carried echoes of Galliano's theatrical sensibility while remaining distinctly aligned with Martens' own aesthetic vocabulary. This delicate balance between homage and innovation defined the entire collection, creating a dialogue between the house's various creative periods.

A New Chapter Begins

Glenn Martens' debut at Maison Margiela represents more than a changing of the guard&mdash;it signals a continuation of the house's commitment to challenging conventional notions of luxury and beauty. By staying true to his own design philosophy while honoring Margiela's revolutionary heritage, Martens has crafted a collection that exists simultaneously in the past, present, and future. It's a promising beginning for a designer who understands that at Margiela, the most radical act is often the most quietly subversive one.

Glenn Martens' Maison Margiela Haute Couture Fall 2025 Debut

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