Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2025: Neo-Dandy Revolt in Paris

Sean McGirr transported guests of the show to a world where Victorian Gothic collided with modern rebellion. Alexander McQueen's new creative director presented an exploration of dandyism through a bold and dramatic lens. The collection paid tribute to the radical spirit of the dandy, drawing inspiration from figures such as Oscar Wilde and Vesta Tilly. 

“For me, dandyism is the ultimate act of adornment, deeply personal, playful and transgressive,” - Sean McGirr. 

With this idea in mind, McGirr played with contrasts in his fall/winter 2025 collection, mixing the refined and the raw, the elegant and the rebellious. The collection utilized rich textures and silhouettes inspired by Victorian sewing, but with an edgy modern attitude. Fluid silks and intricate lace were layered over structured wools and jacquards, creating a sense of intimate luxury.

Gold thread embroidery shimmered on the cloaks and crystal masks glowed under the catwalk lights, adding mystery to the look. Philip Treacy's sculptural hats further enhanced the theatricality, evoking the grandeur of 19th century dandy fashion.  

Although the collection was deeply imbued with dark romanticism, McGirr presented a vibrant palette. A fiery red ensemble with voluminous faux fur sleeves was particularly dazzling. Another, sharply contrasting look consisted of a purple jacket paired with a voluminous skirt with ruffles, netted tights and a wide-brimmed black hat.  

“The collection raises questions of character and identity, idealism and gender,” McGirr writes. “I wanted to explore the relevance of the radical dandy spirit in today's world.”